a few days in el tunco
central america's newest hotspot
Visiting El Salvador left me uncertain. For those who may not know much about the country, I’ll give you a little context.
Sandwiched between Honduras and Guatemala, this small country (roughly the size of Wales) sits on the Pacific coast, famous for its volcanic landscapes, incredib
le surfing beaches and, unfortunately, a long history of violent crime.
Following the civil war between 1980 and the early nineties, the country fell into civil unrest caused by gang violence, leading it to be dubbed the murder capital of the world during the 2010s. In 2019, a new government, led by Nayib Bukele, was elected and adopted a heavy-handed approach to crime, launching a campaign which incarcerated over 80,000 people. This saw a drastic shift in crime throughout the country, naturally sparking a growth in the tourism sector. Today, El Salvador is considered one of the hottest ‘new’ destinations for travellers, especially for backpackers snaking down the length of Central America.
As somebody who is heavily interested in international politics, especially in relation to ethical tourism, the reports of human rights violations in El Salvadorian prisons concerned me. By visiting, was I going to be legitimising a government which is repressing its people? Furthermore, was I going to be able to experience the ‘real’ El Salvador, or simply a falsified version created for international tourists?
I decided to take the leap, keen to spend at least a few days exploring the bustling beach hub of Surf City, one of the country’s most popular travel destinations, surfing, chatting to the people who live there and eating pupusas.
As I was only able to visit for a few days, I was aware that I wouldn’t get a true taste of El Salvador, the way my friend Emily did by backpacking multiple places over the space of three weeks. Nonetheless, I shoved shorts, bikinis and my trusty Tevas into my backpack and headed to CDMX international airport bound for San Salvador.
key info
Currency: US Dollar (USD), but also Bitcoin (Something I didn’t bother trying to use)
Language: Spanish
Religion: Predominantly Christian (mainly Roman Catholic and Evangelical).
Visas: British citizens do not need a visa for short visits to El Salvador, allowing stays of up to 90 days for tourism.
Weather: El Salvador has a tropical climate with warm temperatures year-round (around 25–32°C). There are two main seasons: a dry season (Nov–Apr) with lots of sunshine, and a rainy season (May–Oct) with heavy but often short afternoon showers. Coastal areas are hotter and more humid; higher regions are slightly cooler.
Airport: El Salvador has one main international airport, Monseñor Óscar Arnulfo Romero International Airport (SAL), located about 45 minutes from San Salvador. We flew from London with one stop. The easiest way to reach the city or coast is by Uber or private transfer, which is what I did and was pretty affordable — it costs roughly $25–$35 to get to Surf City.
my highlights! *:･ﾟ✧
surf lessons — I would lie if I said I did much else besides sleep, sunbathe and surf. My excursion to El Salvador was short and sweet, but by god, the surfing was great. Surf City, unsurpirsingly gets its name from the coastline’s incredible and consistent waves, perfect for both beginners and pros. Em and I booked a lesson with Bamboards Surf Academy, whose shop is located a stone’s throw from the beach. We paid $30 for our lesson, which turned out to be only us with two instructors! They were friendly and calm, starting with the basics and improving our form and technique.
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pupusas — My Latin food experiences have been pretty limited, so I’m excited to eat my way through each country’s unique cuisine. Pupusas are corn-based pancakes stuffed with a variety of fillings, usually a protein like chicken or beef, along with beans or cheese. I couldn’t help but return to.
sunsets on the beach — the best things in life come free to us. Namely, sunsets on the beach. El Tunco is famous for its watercolour displays of orange to pink hues. Grab a chela and fit a spot on the shores to watch surfers catch their golden hour waves backdropped by the setting sun.
watch me over on youtube…