best of bangkok / a city guide
thailand's buzzing capital 🇹🇭
Thailand’s capital city, Bangkok (กรุงเทพมหานคร), has all the elements you’d expect from a global capital.
You can lose yourself in its never-ending urban sprawl and, in doing so, stumble across family run, Michelin star local restaurants, discover hidden speakeasies, and sip cocktails backlit by stunning sunsets atop rooftop bars. New meets old here: spot golden Buddhas and stupas glimmering between soaring skyscrapers while riding the commuter ferry down the central Chao Phraya River. And after all that? Collapse into a spa for the best Thai massage of your life.
If you can’t tell by now, I love a big, bustling city. Therefore, I researched the hell out of Bangkok before arriving. In total, I spent six days here, but I have enough recommendations to last you a month.
I don’t pretend to be a local. There are countless creators across YouTube and TikTok, including Bangkok Pat, who make fabulous reviews and guides. Here is what I learnt from my Google searches. Hopefully, it will be useful to some of you!
So without further ado…
This is a mega one, and i’ll keep adding to it over time, so if you’d like to read my full guide, head over to the substack website or read via the app <3 thanks!
bangkok’s neighbourhoods 🗺️
Siam - Luxury shopping and flashy buildings — this is where you’ll find mega malls like Siam Paragon, MBK Centre and ICONSiam, easily accessed by the river boats.
Sukhumvit - The busy beating heart of the city, home to everything from high-end hotels, clubs, rooftop bars, and international restaurants.
Rattanakosin - The ‘Old Town’, where you’ll find the Grand Palace, golden spires of Wat Pho and the iconic giant reclining Buddha. The best places to start your first day.
Chinatown (Yaowarat) - Busy roads lined with food vendors, lit by huge neon signs and bustling markets, Bangkok’s Chinatown is one of the largest in the world and has to been seen at night when it comes alive.
Khao San Road & Banglamphu - Home of the backpacker! Cheap hostels, cheap beer, ear-drum-deafening clubs and street vendors selling scorpions on sticks. If you’re over the age of 25, you’ll feel ancient here.
Ari - Bangkok’s chill district, the place to go for cool cafes, art galleries, and leafy streets. My personal fave!
key info ✍️
Currency: Thai Baht £1 = 45 TBH
Language: Thai
Religion: Primarily Buddhist
Visas: British passport holders are eligible to get a 60-day visa on arrival for no cost, then extend for an additional 30 days (total of 90) while in the country you may be asked for evidence of onward travel (coach, plane or train ticket) to gain entry
Weather: Bangkok is hot and humid pretty much all year, with two main monsoon seasons: the Northeast Monsoon (November to March) brings slightly cooler, drier weather, while the Southwest Monsoon (May to September) means heavy showers and sticky heat.
LGBTQ+: I can hand on heart say that I felt totally safe as an LGBTQ+ traveller during my travels through Thailand. It is the most queer-friendly country in the region, with an open culture. In fact, in June of 2024, Thailand’s Senate passed a bill to legalise same-sex marriage. Gender fluidity and trans people are commonly represented and seen in popular culture and nightlife. However, always air caution and apply safe travel measures where possible, and discrimination happens everywhere
things to do 🪷 กิจกรรมที่ต้องทำ
step one: unwind at a thai spa - Arrive in Bangkok, head into the city, check in, drop your bags, head to your nearest spa and to collapse into a heap and enjoy a full body massage. Trust me, after 12+ hours of flying, there is no better feeling. Any spa will do, as long as it looks decent. Heaven is an air-conditioned room that smells like tiger balm.
check out the city’s temples - Once you’re well rested and refilled, kick things off with a morning of temple hopping. Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha), and Wat Saket (Golden Mount) are the city’s showstoppers. Remember to dress modestly, covering your shoulders and legs and removing shoes when inside temples, as these are religious sites. Some of the sites charge a small entry fee, but nothing crazy.
top tip - The temples and surrounding area are scam central! Despite being warned, I’m ashamed to say I fell for one. I was walking towards the temples from Khao San Road when a passer-by stopped me to say that the temples weren’t open today due to a religious ceremony. His candour was casual and friendly. Genuine enough that I honestly believed him. He pointed towards a map pinned to a nearby tree (how glaringly convenient) and recommended a different temple. In almost comically timed fashion, a tuk-tuk appeared out of thin air, whisking me away to a jewellery shop, a travel agent who tried to sell me a multi-day tour and, to be fair, an alternative temple.
Now this ‘scam’ set me back less than £5. Truly not a huge issue. But I heard a story from a couple who were sold a tour to the floating market, only to be taken elsewhere and charged £100 each. Food for thought. Book your tours on reputable websites or through your accommodation.
shop till you drop - The other biggest highlight of Bangkok? The shopping scene. Mahoooosive markets, boutique indie stores, vintage shops, you name it, this city has it. Head to Chatuchak Market, the world’s largest weekend market with over 15,000 stores! I came here at the end of my trip and picked up spices, curry pastes and a few cute souvenirs, but they also have lots of food stalls. Just across the road, you’ll find Bang Sue Junction Shopping Centre, a blissfully air-conditioned multi-level mall of vintage clothing, antique furniture and treasures. You could not pack anything and just purchase an insanely cool second-hand wardrobe on arrival. If all of this shopping still isn’t enough, visit ChangChui Creative Park a night market and creative space built around a massive aeroplane!
get lost in the chaos of china town - Yaowarat, Bangkok’s Chinatown, is one of the largest in the world. The overall vibe is frantic. Walking down the main street you’ll find restaurants and street food vendors frying oyster omelettes and dumplings. Visit at night to snap a picture of the brilliant neon signs before grabbing something to eat. Escape the floods of people in cool cocktail bars such as Buph Phe Bar or Widdershins where you can grab a window seat, sip on an old-fashioned and watch the world go by.
drift down the canals of the floating market - Also common in Thailand’s neighbouring countries of Vietnam and Cambodia, floating markets have existed for hundreds of years in communities that gather, trade and survive along the region’s major waterways, such as the Mekong. The biggest and most popular market in Bangkok is Damnoen Saduak, where long-tail boats shuffle past one another and sellers drift down the canals hawking their goods, while bananas, flowers and snacks change hands. Most hostels organise tours to Damnoen Saduak and the city’s smaller floating markets, or you can head there yourself using public transport.
where to eat + drink 🍜 ไปกินที่ไหน
The best thing to do in Bangkok? Eat. Here are a few spots that foodies across the globe go feral for…including one of the most affordable Michelin-starred restaurants in the world!
crab omelettes by the famous jay fai - Jay Fai is hands-down the coolest chef in the world. Watch Street Food on Netflix to get the full story, but the long and short of it is that she’s been whipping up her famous tom yum soup and crab omelettes every day for years. Donning her signature goggles, she runs her kitchen from her helm: the wok. From here, she flips veg and fries up omelettes over scorching fire pits all day. Every day. And people loveeeee them. In 2017, she was awarded a Michelin star. The only street food vendor in Bangkok to receive the accolade! Get there early: queues start well before opening time.
riverside snacks at jack’s bar - I loved exploring the city by commuter ferry, and after hopping off, I shuffled over to Jack’s Bar for a quick lunch. This shack-style spot is built right over the river’s edge and has been a backpacker hotspot for years. A ramshackle dive bar tucked beneath a looming luxury hotel. Expect wok-cooked Thai dishes, cold beers, and a view.
speakeasies and snazzy jazz bars - As mentioned before, Bangkok isn’t short of chic speakeasies and hidden bars. If you’re a fan of music, check out the alternative listening bar Freaking Out The Neighbourhood for relaxed vibes. Another hidden gem (literally) is #FindTheLockerRoom, which you’ll find tucked down an alley behind an inconspicuous locker door. For a night of chill vibes and live jazz music, check out Buddha & Pals.
eat a pad thai - One of the best things about Thailand is that nearly every vendor and restaurant serves incredible food. I don’t think I had a dud meal the entire trip - and if I did, it was probably a Western dish. Make the most of that and sample the country’s classic staples. The pad thai at Thipsamai Padthai Pratu Phi, just a stone’s throw from Jay Fai’s, is often considered the best in town. And don’t be afraid to grab street food: sweet and spicy som tam (papaya salad), gai tod (fried chicken), or skewers of satay chicken.
watch the sunset from rooftop bars - It isn’t until you ascend one of Bangkok’s soaring skyscrapers that you comprehend the sprawling size of the capital city. Head to one of the uber modern cocktail bars such as 64th floor The Sky Bar (as seen on seen in The Hangover movie) Above 11 and Sky Beach which is the tallest in the city!
cool coffee culture - I was super surprised at how chic all of the boutique coffee shops and roasters are in Bangkok. An Instagrammer’s dream. In Talat Noi I visited Mother Roaster and Hong Sieng Kong and loved them both, especially the latter with its garden which overlooks the river.
where to stay 🏡 พักที่ไหน
budget: for social, party vibes - Bed Station by Khaosan Rd couldn’t get you closer to the madness and mayhem. Plus, it has a bar and a pool! The beds all have lockers and curtains, which is always great.
budget: for relaxed, communal vibes - The Yard Hostel Bangkok next time I visit the city this is where I’ll stay! It looks social without the party and binge drinking with their communal central garden area with hammocks and group yoga sessions.
luxury: for charming character - Forget bland and boring white bedrooms, The Bangkok Publishing House oozes character. Each of the 8 bedrooms is individually designed and decorated with vintage furniture and wooden floorboards.
luxury: big city lights - Everything you’d want from a swanky cosmopolitan hotel, big glass windows, infinity swimming pool: Park Hyatt Bangkok is the classic bougie hotel.
my google maps 🗺️
So, planning your trip to Thailand? Save my Google Maps list here to check out my recommendations for yourself.
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