singapore stopover

a destination guide for a weekend (or more if you're lucky!)

Dec 27, 2024

When in the planning phase of my Southeast Asia backpacking trip, I wrote off the idea of going to Singapore. All I knew about the city-state was that it was expensive, and with a tight budget, that was enough to exclude it from my itinerary.

Thanks to great budgeting (not from me), the trip ended up being extended to not one but two more countries, the Philippines AND Malaysia! At that point, we were only a short coach ride away from the country, so it would have been silly not to squeeze it in.

Throughout my trip, my fascination with Singapore had grown. Everyone seemed to have polarised opinions about the pocket-sized country perched on the tip of the Malaysian peninsula. Some backpackers raved about its incredible hawker centres, which were crammed full of family-run shops specializing in Hainanese chicken, laksa and Indian daal. They loved the extensive public parks and green spaces, including the nightly light show at the Supertree Grove in Gardens by the Bay.

Others were dismissive, dubbing it a nanny state, a soulless artifice that was too clean, too expensive and lacked the ‘authenticity’ of its neighbouring countries.

But for me, these opinions made it all the more interesting. I had to go and see what all the fuss was about with my own two eyes. It’s also worth noting that at this point in the trip, I was missing home comforts, and Singapore is about as close to the UK as you’ll find in Asia.

If you are planning a trip that offers a layover in Singapore, I would urge you to squeeze it in. It may be an expensive city, but its size and diversity packs a punch.

So without further ado…

This is a mega one, so if you’d like to read my full guide head over to the substack website or read via the app <3 thanks!

some of singapore’s districts 🗺️

Marina Bay - The futuristic waterfront district home to the gardens by the bay, luxury malls and Marina Bay Sands hotel
Kampong Galem - You’ll likely have heard of Haji Lane, the vibrant area full of bars, street art and shops, but this area is also home to beautiful colonial stores and golden mosques
Civic District - Skyscraper offices and colonial buildings perch on the quayside, this is where you’ll find the national museums and galleries, and where my hostel was located!
Little India - Exactly what it sounds like! The central hub for Singapore’s Indian community, packed with colourful shop fronts, delicious restaurants and a beautiful Hindu temple
China Town - Whatever country you’re in, you’re guaranteed to find fantastic food in China Town, this rule applies here in Singapore - Tuck in at Chinatown Complex home to Michelin star dishes, then wander around and appreciate the heritage architecture

key info ✍️

Currency: Singapore Dollar — £1 = $1.72
Language: The official languages of Singapore are English, Chinese, Malay and Tamil, meaning most citizens are multilingual
Religion: Singapore is a diverse country with a population of Buddhist, Muslim Christian, Taoist and Hindu citizens - consequently religious harmony is heavily encouraged by the government
Visas: Singapore is a very easy country to visit as a Brit - On arrival all you need to do is scan a link in the airport, fill out an electronic SG Arrival Card and you’ll be free to enter for up to 30 days
Weather: Singapore is hot and humid throughout the year with the the wettest months being November to January and the temperature always sits above 30 degrees year-round
LGBTQ+: While discretion is advised as Singapore’s government still leans conservative, LGBTQ+ people are widely accepted and supported

things to do 🏙️

Watch the light show of the supergrove trees - Although Singapore is an expensive country, it makes up for it with its vast amounts of free parks and safe, tourist-friendly activities across the city. Most famously, Gardens by the Bay, the country’s national gardens feature huge conservatories such as the cloud forest and flower dome, botanical gardens, wetlands and the iconic super grove trees which perform a visual dance to opera twice every night at 7:45 & 8:45 PM. Why not also check out the massive Cloud Forest, home to one of the world’s tallest indoor waterfalls?

Eat your way around hawker centres - These open-air food halls are the beating heart of Singapore’s famous food scene — They are home to the island’s most iconic dishes such as melt-in-your-mouth chicken rice, spicy chilli crab, satay, steaming bowls of laksa and nasi lemak, my mouth’s watering just thinking about it! Scroll down for some of the best places to eat these moreish meals.

Explore the colourful streets of Little India - I have never visited India, but Indian food, culture and religion have fascinated me since studying Hinduism for my GCSE in religious studies (lol) — Nonetheless, wandering around the shops and streets of these Singaporean streets are the closest I’ve ever come to experiencing it in person. Make sure you see the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple before visiting the India Heritage Centre to see their collection of historical Southasia artefacts. Finish up at the Tekka Centre to get your fill of biriyani.

Learn about local history and art at the museums - I decided to visit the National Museum of Singapore during my brief stop-over and I highly recommend it to anyone who wishes to understand more about the country’s unique origin story. If you’re more into the creative end of SG culture, consider exploring the National Gallery to see the world’s largest collection of Southeast Asian modern art.

Get lost in the island’s greenspaces - I rented a public bike and cycled from the Boat Key, around Gardens by the Bay then across the Marina Barrage Dam bridge to the Bay East Garden. It was a cheap and relaxing way to explore some of Singapore’s lush green public spaces. If I had more time, I would have visited the Singapore Botanic Gardens, the first UNESCO Heritage Site, home to the National Orchid Garden, Ginger Garden and thousands of species of native flora and fauna.

where to eat singapore’s signature dishes 🍽️

Hainanese Chicken Rice - As possibly the country’s most famous dish, there’s always going to be debates about who does it best!

A few names I’ve come across include the following, Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice and Ah Thai in Maxwell Food Centre are often mentioned as two of the nicest, plus Liao Fan Hawker Chan which is the world’s first Michelin-starred hawker stall

Chilli Crab - A spicy tomato-based crab dish that seafood fans will die for. Check out Chin Huat, Jumbo Seafood or No Signboard Seafood to get your hands on the some of the best seafood in the city

Kaya Toast - I don’t think you can go wrong with Kaya toast! It’s two slices of white toasted bread with cold butter and kaya coconut jam, served with Kopi. Try Ah Seng (Hai Nam) Kopi who still toasts their bread on a charcoal grill

Char Kway Teow - A stir-fried noodle dish with wide, flat noodles which was brought to Singapore by its Chinese immigrant population. Michelin recommends Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee and No.18 Zion Road Fried Kway Teow

where to stay 🏡

I stayed at BEAT Capsule Hostel, a capsule-style hostel located waterside on the Quayside. Prices are more expensive in Singapore compared to the rest of Southeast Asia, and that includes accommodation. Considering this, I think all three of the BEAT hostels offer fantastic value for money if you’re looking to keep prices down during your stay in the city.

If you’ve got a little more cash to splash, then I’d check out lyf Bugis Singapore which offers compact but stylish rooms, centrally located only a short walk from Fort Canning Park and the National Museum. If you’re looking for luxury, head to Raffles Singapore for colonial classical architecture and their signature cocktail, the famous Singapore Sling!